Big-wave master Matt Bromley shares the antidote to fear

Alone in a little tent above Jaws – the heaviest wave of the Pacific – big-wave master Matt Bromley couldn’t sleep. The roar of the waves crashed over him relentlessly. Jet lagged, restless, he reached for his phone and called home in South Africa.

His wife sent him a photo of a scan – a “tiny, pea-sized bean” – that was Matt’s unborn son. It was the first time he’d seen an image of his little grom. Under the flimsy canvas, in the moments before the sun rose on the biggest test of his surfing life, he was overcome.

“I burst into tears. I’ve never felt so vulnerable,” Matt says. “The last thing I wanted to do was go surf big waves.

“But then I whipped out my Bible… and God just made me realise I was here for a purpose. I was running on fumes – but God helped me rise up and have one of the best sessions of my life, catching some of the biggest set waves of the day.”

God is near even in the vulnerable moments. Maybe especially in the vulnerable moments.

It’s a lesson Matt has learned over and over in a career that’s taken him to the edge of the world’s biggest waves. Every drop over the  edge is potentially a near-death experience. But that’s where he  feels closest to God.

And it’s a message he wants to share with anyone who asks how he’s not swallowed by fear.

“In that moment, where you’re looking over the edge and you’re scared to death; the water’s drawing off the reef, the wind is howling up the wave face and it’s where ultimate fear meets preparation. 

“The underlying message is that everyone has their big waves to ride in life – and it’s always scary. But when we engage, when we push ourselves over the edge of that challenge, that’s when we have our best moments.”

As a Christian in the surfing world, Matt’s committed to letting his faith show through in every aspect of his life. How he surfs, sure – but how he treats others in the line-up, how he interacts with fans and groms, how he lives his life.

Affectionately known as “Bromdog”, Matt’s just one of thousands of surfers with a faith in Jesus who are making a difference in their communities. His passion is seeing others, especially young people, face down their fears and take risks.

“I would just like to encourage people that nobody is bulletproof,” Matt says. “Everyone feels fear, and doubts themselves; everyone feels unworthy, but don’t let fear hold you back.

“Don’t try to avoid situations that make you feel vulnerable. It’s those situations where we see the greatest breakthrough.”

From Jaws to Dungeons to Mavericks and Nias, Matt’s determined to keep pushing through his own limits, discovering more about himself – and the God who made him. As he clings to his faith, he’s learning to release his own fear and the need to always be in control.

“We can live life under our control, but big wave surfing allows me to step out in faith – to draw near to my Creator and feel the incredible awe-inspiring power as God is behind those huge waves.”

Sometimes, you’ve just got to let go.

*Photographer: Marco Arellano for Matt Bromley’s film: Over the Edge