Living Water by Jacob Galura

Image: Nic Bothma

How many times have you come in on a big day and been asked "how big is it out there?" For me it doesn't happen much at home but every time I come back from a trip the question pops up. As I've progressed as a surfer, I tend to focus less on how many feet a wave is and more on measuring wave size in increments of fear. Most surfers have been out on a day that puts them on edge.

One session in particular that I always go back to was in France a few years ago during the International Gathering. I probably had no business being in the water. Classic fall conditions in Hossegor and some of the best surfers in the world were in the lineup. I spent hours paddling and taking beating after beating trying to get out. The two waves I managed to paddle into made me question every decision I made that morning that led me to the ensuing hold downs. What I learned that morning was where my limit was in the ocean. I went right up to it and a little past it. It left me rattled and pretty bummed, but looking back I'm pretty stoked that I at least gave myself a chance.

Going through life is very similar, as we experience more and step more out of our comfort zones, the more we become comfortable with. Every challenge life gives us also grows us. We get stronger through the trials we face. The same way you learn to fall in heavy surf or on a reef, the same way you learn to navigate different situations in life. The more we paddle and stretch ourselves in the water, the easier it becomes. I want to encourage you to keep stepping out of your comfort zone in and out of the water. And the best part is you don't have to do it alone. During those days in France I was in the water with an amazing community of people that look out for each other when things get real. The same goes for life, find authentic community to lean into when things get rough, someone may have some wisdom on how to get through it. And most importantly, remember that you have a God that is right there with you whether you're getting the best barrel of your life or sent over the falls to the sand.

Psalm 27:1 "The Lord is my light and my salvation; whom shall I fear? The Lord is my stronghold of my life; of whom shall I be afraid?"