Living Water by Matt Beacham

Cover: Kelly Slater by Aaron Hughs

How did Kelly Slater get so good at surfing? Lots of surfers have gotten great too, but for this study, let's look at the best. 

There are lots of historical factors that we could use as variables as to why Slater got so good. We could look at: His drive. Heightened competitive nature. Low level of fear in the face of danger or bodily harm. Massive feet in relation to body size. Genetically hyper flexible lower back. Mental fortitude. Prodigy level natural talent. Affinity for good taste and style. Intelligence. Surrounded by a thriving Florida surf scene that included real, legit mentors and peers. 

We could look at all these factors and many more. But it is of my opinion that one factor outstretches all the rest. And that factor is: The waves are mostly bad in Florida. This could also be named: Hunger. Drive. Surfing for hours when the waves are really bad. Underdog.

Obviously the waves are amazing in Florida some days, and all 12 of those days out of 365, Kelly Slater was out all day too. But it was the junk days I believe fashioned the careers of Kelly, the Hobgood twins, the Lopez brothers and so many more to come out of good old FL. 

If this is true about real world success in the face of odds, do we see this concept paralleled in scripture anywhere? I think we see it everywhere in scripture. Jesus was from the not so important town of Nazareth. "What good can come from Nazareth?" John 1:46 (Which is a fulfilment of prophecy, but that's a different story.) Underdog stories exist all throughout the bible. Just consider the odds stacked against Gideon, David, Moses, and Daniel. Daniel certainly had to spend many a day grinding in the junk waves of his faith to have the fortitude to trust what God said in the lion's den.

It's fun to look at. What made Kelly Slater great? Like all equations that have too many variables, we'll never have a clear answer. But as a kid from North Carolina, I'm gonna stick with my hunch about Kelly and the waves in Florida.

Have a great start to your 2021 everyone. God loves you and desires to talk with you today in the quiet living room of your heart.